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Whenever compiling a ranking of London’s finest eateries, one might expect familiar high-end establishments. But, tucked near the top among these gastronomic heavyweights is a simple salonu found in a outlying area of north London.

An Surprise Recognition

This compact Turkish restaurant, focusing in the street food of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been named the fourth finest restaurant in the city by a respected food magazine. This honour has left the proprietors totally astonished.

“I am completely shocked,” remarks the proprietor, referring to his parents’ dedication that led to their modest restaurant achieving such a prominent spot on a notable 99-strong list.

The Character of Modesty

The compact space, which started as a simple cafe before its conversion into a popular food hotspot, has kept much of its earlier charm. It fits just more than 20 people and, aside from the vibrant live cooking show, the interior remains largely unchanged. “It is a small and stocky place,” notes the owner.

A Namesake Creation: Tantuni

Ultimately, it is all about the food, and this eatery more than succeeds. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a straightforward pleasure. The meat—either lamb or chicken—is steamed to preserve a succulent quality.

It is then tossed into a massive pan with spices and oil, which are incorporated in slowly. As the meaty mixture bubbles up, handmade lavaş—a pliable bread—is placed on top to soak in all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley go inside before the tasty meat is rolled tightly inside.

It is often enjoyed with a squeeze of lemon or some pickles. The final product is a strong punch of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, punchy onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil bringing it all together.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is sliced and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. A prominent food critic described this dish “a part of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

For sweets, the eatery’s künefe goes down a delight. It is doused in a more modest amount of syrup than is typical, resulting in it a deeper, more aromatic and more balanced profile.

Surpassing the Stars

Notably, this unassuming spot has ranked above several celebrated three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself near the summit of the list, following other notable dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave this place satisfied for under £25, equivalent tasting menus at top-tier establishments can start at significantly more than that price.

The Philosophy of Hospitality

It is also among several Turkish restaurants included and is situated well outside the city’s central zones. “It is not focused on luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an belief that in an expensive place you’re going to have the top service and top food but I do not agree with that,” states the owner.

“In my view what is paramount is warmth, kindness and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This sentiment is echoed by the list’s editor, who stated that if he was in a role of authority, he would “make it mandatory to make every chef in London come to this spot as a masterclass, to show them the dangers of excess, and to show what is attainable if you do a few – or three – things to their utmost best”.

A Journey of Hard Work

In contrast to many chefs managing kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the driving force behind the food did not work at fancy restaurants. “I feel really happy of our restaurant and our mum,” concludes her son.

Numerous restaurants take years to find their footing, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its success is due to relentless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“Our mum was really tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. All of it is made by hand; she would handle all of this. She is a solo parent and she had a social life but her friends would visit to support her. She was raising children and a house to look after as well. Each of these responsibilities made her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he says.

An Achievement for the Community

This restaurant’s recognition is bound to resonate outside its own walls. “I think a lot of people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” concludes the owner, emphasising the wider meaning of this gastronomic triumph.